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In Search of Old Buildings
Many people say that besides the Acropolis and the major archeological sites, there is little of architectural
substance in the city of Athens. I disagree.
Those who explain Athens away as merely a concrete jungle are guilty of not having their eyes open
when they walk the streets of the city.
Actually there are many distinguished buildings scattered throughout the city, most built before the turn
of the century in the neo-classic style. Many of these have been restored and some of those that have
not are in the process of being restored.
You could compare it to New York City because many of the old beautiful buildings and homes were
knocked down in the name of 'progress' (or greed) and replaced with apartment buildings.
If you can
find an old postcard of Athens from the late 19th century, you can wander around and find the buildings
which are still in existance.
Athens is no Vienna or Paris in the respect that there are no large sections of the city that have remained
intact for hundreds of years (except the Plaka) but Athens is a new city compared to all of those cities
including New York.
Before the late 1800's Athens was basically a village and that village still exists in the Plaka
and Anafiotika neighborhoods where you can still walk around and feel like you are on a small island village
rather then a big city.
Even the noise of the traffic finds it difficult to make its way through the winding streets
and stairways.
In Athens it's a matter of taking the time to distinguish what is distinguishable. Even the most visually unsightly
neighborhood full of polikatikias (the most hated word in my wife's vocabulary. It means apartment building),
will have some gem of an old home tucked between characterless concrete monstrosities.
The downtown area is full of great old buildings and churches. Nothing compares to the Acropolis of
course but what does anywhere?
Right now there is a process going on which is being labeled as the Vienafication of Athens: the pedestrian
streets, the restoration and floodlighting of the old public buildings, restoration of the main squares and the
sinking of some of the major avenues to create a giant green archeological area that will spread from
Philippapos hill to the Stadium.
There are even plans to raise the river that used to flow through the city and
is now underground.
Architecturally and visually I agree with those who say that parts of Athens can be a nightmare for someone
with refined architectural tastes, but it is that juxtaposition of the profound to the profane that makes Athens
interesting (did I say that right?).
It's easy to see the ugliness, but you don't notice it anymore when you are looking for beauty. You want
something interesting to do in Athens? Go out and keep your eyes open for the old Neo-Classic buildings
and turn-of-the-century homes. They are everywhere and unless you are looking for them you may not even
notice them. There are also many examples of Art Deco apartment buildings, and beautiful examples of
Art Nouveau wrought iron.
My sister-in-law is a historic preservation architect in New York (she's working on Falling Waters in Pa) and
she and my wife taught me this. Now I see beautiful buildings everywhere I look. It definately adds substance
to any walk around the city. It is also sad because you can imagine what the city looked like even 25 years
ago before they tore many of the old buildings down. Even some of the early and mid twentieth century
buildings can be amazing as is this arcade between Panapistimiou and Stadiou streets, one of many.
If you really want to see some amazing examples of Hellenic style architecture go take a walk around the
university.
It's like a re-creation of Classical Athens and you almost expect to see Socrates walking around
with followers.
And I have not even mentioned the Byzantine churches, which are everywhere. Some are tucked away
in little courtyards with beautiful gardens, walled in by five story concrete buildings. Some have modern
buildings built around them, while others like the Church of the Metamorphisis on Ermou, have finally
once again become the beautiful center-piece of a pedestrian walkway after being an impediment to
Athenian drivers for the last twenty years because had to drive around it.
So when it comes to architecture and buildings with personality don't sell Athens short.
The concrete jungle you see is merely a facade that hides numerous treasures. Don't blink. You might miss one.
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