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Slovakia, the former Czechoslovakia's less glamorous partner, emerged dishevelled and sleepy after the 'Velvet Revolution' of 1989. Although it's now holding its own in a rebuilding Eastern bloc, there's a refreshing absence of Prague-style glitz and clamour. This is a land of real spirit, where folk traditions have survived the domination of foreign rulers and a plethora of castles and chateaux pay testament to untold wars and civil conflicts.


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