HOOKED ON GREECE
Athens
Naxos
Santorini
Rhodes
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Hooked on Greece: Santorini |
We had read alot about the famous Santorini island. It is a three hour ferry trip from Naxos to Santorini.
There is one stop at Ios along the way. As the ferry enters the caldera, our first view is of the infamous Oia.
On first glance, it looks as though the top of the caldera is lined with snow. As the ferry moves further into the caldera, it is then that you realize that what you thought was snow perched up so high is actually many many white-washed buildings, literally dangling from 1000 feet up.
I had read that the best way to arrive in Santorini is by ferry and during the day. They were right! It is an experience that can not be missed.
There are actually two ports on this island. The old port is used by cruise ships and other chartered boats. The only way up the cliff from this port is by walking or donkey-ride up the many many stairs, or by cable-car.
The ferries however use another port which is larger and there is a regular road up the cliff. On second thought, I should not call this road "regular". It winds, winds and winds some more up to the top of the caldera. We took a tour bus and sometimes I wondered what would have happened had we met another bus on it's way down.
Once at the top, the caldera disappears from view as we head to other parts of the island. The other side of Santorini slowly rolls it's way downwards past the grape orchards to the black sand beaches.
The bus took us to the east side of the island first to drop people off at various points along the way. This was a good way to see some of the island's interior.
Finally it was our turn. We were let off along the main road and greeted by one of our hotel's staff. It was a good thing that he met us because we would never have found the way ourselves.
We went down steps, around bends, up steps and down more steps. Suddenly there was the caldera. I nearly stumbled and fell trying to walk and look at the same time.
Our "traditional cave house" accommodation was in the town of Imerovigli. The caldera view was one I will never forget. If there is only one time you can splurge on accommodation, do it here on Santorini. Get a caldera view.
Imerovigli is a short walk from the main road to the town of Fira. If you take the cliff paths, the view is spectacular all the way to town. You might get lost once or twice or find yourself at another hotel entrance but that is half the fun. Be sure to wear good walking shoes for the paths. There are many steps up, then down, then up again.
The local bus service in Santorini is excellent. From the main town it is easy to catch a bus to all ends of the island. The streets are very narrow and the roads very curvy.
If two buses meet on a narrow street, one bus has to back up until there is room to pass. People ride motorbikes and scooters everywhere also and it is quite an experience when the bus is honking at bikes mere inches in front of it.
You don't have to purchase bus tickets in advance-just get on the bus. Money is collected on the way.
We took one bus to the excavations at Acrotiri. Unfortunately, there was work being done on the roof and all the ruins were covered up for protection. It should still not be missed however.
We went back to Fira town and took another bus which goes to the other side of the island. The eastern side of the island has beaches with black volcanic sand. Be careful, this sand gets very hot.
The tavernas at Kamari Beach run along the beach and are a great spot to stop for a refreshing vodka-lemon. This beach was very busy and I understand there is alot of action here after nightfall.
We had lunch. Shawn became addicted to the shrimp in Santorini. My new favourite became moussaka. We tried the local wine directly from the barrels. This turned out to be the Retsina we had read about. It took about two glasses each for the acquired taste. From then on, we drank it with every meal.
Our next bus trip was to the romantic town of Oia in the northern part of the island. Oia is famous for it's spectacular sunsets. It is a very picturesque spot and much more colorful than the traditional white-wash of the rest of the island.
For our last night in Santorini, there was a "Greek BBQ" party for everyone at the hotel. There was Greek music, and a table full of food. We started our meal with pasta and sauces, tradititional Greek salad, rolls, and Santorini sausages.
There was white or red local wine as well. We totally stuffed ourselves only to find that this was just the first course.
We still had to try Greece's most famous roasted potatoes and grilled chops. I asked the hotel manager the name of the music so that we could buy the CD. He told us it was called "tourist music". Regardless, we bought a CD anyway.
At night the caldera view is really amazing from Imerovigli. The town of Fira off to the left looks like diamonds sparkling on a velvet blanket. Santorini is truly an island like no other.
Alas, tomorrow we fly to Rhodes, the last island of our trip.
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